Active Wales

To truly experience a country, I need to get intimate with the land. Taking in the aroma of blossoms and pine needles. Listening to the soft crunch of leaves underfoot, and the wild roar of the ocean. Touching craggy boulders strewn along my path or rough bark in dense forests. Tasting the salt spray from a turbulent surf on my lips. Here's are some activities that will bring you up close with the varied landscapes found in Wales.

Surfing
        Along the Gower Peninsula with its soaring cliffs and its sweeping sandy bays, you'll find fine quality waves, especially and consistently along the beaches of Llangennith. Beginners will be comfortable here as well as skillful surfers. But, either way, you can rent all your equipment from PJ's Surf Shop.

Whitewater Rafting and Kayaking
      Thrill seekers will find plenty to get their adrenalin levels skyrocketing in the north of the country at the National WhiteWater Centre along the River Tryweryn, which is a dam-release waterway. Here you'll be able to negotiate Class III rapids whether via kayak, canoe or inflatable raft. Or sit it out and watch one of several competitions regularly held here.

Mountain Biking
     The network of trails networking the conifer-laden forests of Coed-y-Brenin Forest Park make for a premium mountain biking venue. They're graded similar to ski trails, with the green ideal for novices and the black reserved for those who are fit and fearless. (A trail named the Beast of Brenin is self explanatory.) Bike rental is available at Beics Brenin.


Road Cycling
       Wales is plenty bicycle friendly with many traffic-free trails (whether rails-to-trails or forest paths) linked together as part of the National Cycle Network. On one of these, the Lon Geltaidd Celtic Trail East, you'll be able to pedal almost 200 miles from Fishguard, a town on a scenic headland that's noted for its music festivals, to the Severn Bridge in the south of Wales. And the vast majority of the time, you'll be on paths that are car free.


Walking and Hiking
        The Pembrokeshire Coast Path, in the eponymous national park, sticks mostly to the clifftops along its sea-hugging route for most of its 185-some-mile length. Whether spotting seabirds or sunbathing seals, you'll be traversing a path that you can stroll for an afternoon or a couple of weeks. If you're in Fishguard, you'll be able to access the path that runs through old ports; or the precipitous section of the path where seabirds may be your only companions above St. Davids Head.

A Historic and Tasty Walking Tour in Brooklyn

As a native New Yorker, I've taken a lot of NYC-based walking tours in the hopes of getting a different perspective about my hometown. But, by far, one of the best is the Brooklyn-centric tour company, Made in Brooklyn Tours, run by Dom Gervasi. I had taken his Williamsburg walking tour many months ago and found him to be enthusiastic, knowledgeable, organized and full of amazingly yummy tasting experiences that he introduced us to.

I'm hoping to eventually do all of his tours, but my most recent one was to the DUMBO neighborhood. I thought I knew this neighborhood but here are some of the fascinating factoids I learned from Dom:

Artists in residence named the area DUMBO (for Down Under the Manhattan Bridge Overpass) in the late 1970s, hoping it would deter developers from encroaching into this waterfront landscape. It became their legacy.

In the early 1900s in NYC, you couldn't start a pizza shop with a coal-burning oven unless the building already had one. Grimaldi's, where, in the evening, the lines stretch down the street, was in a former bank building that clearly came sans coal-burning oven. It got permission to build the oven only because it was a chain.

Brooklyn Ice Cream Factory - they've only got eight flavors. And their formulations are "American style", which means no eggs in the recipe. That's the old fashioned way of making ice cream at a time when there was no way to pasteurize egg yolks. (My favorite is the chocolate chocolate chunk.)

Finally NYC is making better use of its waterways in terms of ferry service between the boroughs. But it was Cornelius Dircksen who started the first ferry between Brooklyn and Manhattan in 1637. Unbelievably he charged the Native Americans double what he charged the Dutch.

It was Robert Fulton who ran the first commercial ferry service in 1814 when it was quite common for farmers and their cattle to make the river crossing every day.

The men behind the Brooklyn Bridge suffered tragic fates: as John Roebling was inspecting the bridge, a ferry crushed his foot  He died of what was called lockjaw at the time, but we know it as tetanus. His son, Washington, took over and, after working in the underwater caissons that became the bridge's foundation, developed what was known as Caisson's Disease, aka "the bends." He was paralyzed for the rest of his life.

But it's not all about DUMBO's past that stands out on this tour:

Recycle-A-Bicycle on Pearl Street was started as an outreach program by Transportation Alternatives as a way to teach kids how to recycle their bikes. Now 1,200 bikes are recycled every year. They train interns in Long Island City and teach kids through this internship programs. On Wednesdays, adults can help out in the shop and learn about recycling, too.

Beginning in the late 1800s, the Arbuckle family owned several buildings at the intersection of Jay and John Streets all involved with coffee roasting. They had a method of preserving the aroma of the bean by glazing it with sugar and eggs. One of the buildings now houses the Brooklyn Roasting Company that's all about being green: the coffee is organic, Rainforest Alliance, fair trade and direct trade. The beans are stored in steel canisters and the coffee is shipped by bicycle or bio-diesel-powered vans. Their cafe, that's adjacent to the roasting facility, is definitely worth a stop. Sit on the sidewalk in nice weather in one of the many folding chairs.

Mamselles Teas & Tarts is run by Jasmine who's an attorney by profession. Unlike a typical white-glove style tea shop, this one is casual, with teas coming from three purveyors, including renowned Harney & Sons. Choose one of the unique flavors such as blood orange, French super blue lavender, or evergreen mint. (The iced blood orange was refreshing on a muggy NYC afternoon.) And pair it with a savory Caribbean tart: pineapple with ginger and nutmeg; salmon and codfish; shredded chicken with spices; or cheddar with red pepper. They are all Guyanese style.

Dewey's Candy Shop stocks plenty of vintage-type and new items. The licorice selection is extensive as is the selection of chocolates with curious flavors that include edamame with salt,  classic hemp, and dark chocolate with sea salt.

FIve Scenic Walks in Scotland

With such a diverse landscape of moors, woodlands, lochs, glens, sandy beaches and rugged peaks, Scotland presents walkers with a medley of options, from multi-day, rigorous treks to more leisurely strolls of just a few hours duration. But no matter the level of exertion, you'll be enveloped in this country's sublime beauty if you choose any of the five walks below:

1. The four-day Great Glen Way will bring you to Leitirfearn Nature Reserve with its myriad wildflowers and the ruins of Invergarry Castle. Of course, Loch Ness is the most iconic sight. But those who are obsessed with canals, like myself, will be able to inspect various features along the route that parallels the Caledonian Canal with the eight locks of Neptune's Staircase.

2. West Highland Way is, without a doubt, the country's most popular walking route. There's plenty of woodland stretches along this almost 100-mile route, which typically takes a week to traverse. You'll wander along Lock Lomond,  explore Rannoch Moor, a wild bogland, and climb the aptly named Devil's Staircase to some 1,800 feet.

3. On Orkney Island, a six-mile walk along the West Westray Coast
from Kirbest to Noup Headon will bring you to the 19th century Noup Head Lighthouse that stands over dramatic cliffs noted for their seabirds. In fact, this walk will delight birders. Arctic terns, puffins, guillemots are a few of the species you are likely to spot along the way, including in the Cliffs Nature Reserve.
Climbing to the top of Fitty Hills will provide panoramic views of the entire island

4.  Beinn Eighe Mountain Trail is an almost three-mile loop that brings you to the Beinn Eighe National Nature Reserve with its clutch of ancient pines.The mountain, as opposed to the woodland, trail affords 360° views, but it also requires negotiating steep rocky slopes with cairns marking the way.
The payoff: views of Loch Maree, the Beinn Eighe Massif and the Torridon Mountains.

5. Walking the scenic route from the hamlet of Blairmore to the Cape Wrath Lighthouse, you'll encounter few other people along a stretch of pristine coast
and the cream-colored beach of Sandwood Bay. Along the 14-mile trek, you'll climb across steep slopes, meander along cliff tops and cross several waterways. One of the most curious features of this journey is the stacks of boulders that resemble human faces

Tips For Adventure Travel, My Fave Parks + Much More

With summer vacations on the horizon, how do you choose an adventure-based trip? After all, you don't want to end up on a hiking trek that seems like you'll pass out as you slog up yet another mountain pass, particularly if you're at high altitude. Kinda puts a crimp in the enjoyment factor. And it can be a health hazard, especially if you have any pre-existing conditions or are just unfit or unprepared.

Not all of my trips are adventure-based, but those that are, most are memorable, such as my multi-day cross-country ski journey in Washington's Methow Valley. Then, there are those that I'd rather forget - or, rather, forget select portions - such as having to negotiate vertigo-inducing "via ferrata" in Italy's Dolomite Mountains.

For those who've never done (or even considered) a multi-day hiking, biking, cross-country skiing trek, you might wonder what's the appeal?  For me, it means focusing in on the simple things in life: food, shelter and good company.

These are just a few of the things I discussed in an interview with Don Nadeau, President of Bidon Travel. 

You'll learn about my favorite hikes, what other adventures are on my list, some of my favorite adventure tour operators, what travel experience related to my degree in Eastern Religion, under-the-radar gems in Spain, why I adore visiting Israel, my favorite parks and gardens around the world, and much more.

Zurich's Postcard Perfect Urban Wilderness

Ah, a snowy Sunday in Zurich. With so many shops closed, what's a Type A person, like myself, to do? Head to the wilderness, of course. And that couldn't be easier in Zurich where Mount Uetliberg, really a set of hills rather than one mountain, rises almost 3,000 feet above sea level. In the winter, it's a playground for sledding, walking, hiking, jogging and mountain biking. In the summer, take sledding  out of the mix and add picnicking.

Taking a train from Zurich's main station to Uetliberg, I shared my car with families and kids toting sleds. The wide open slopes as well as steeper terrain attracts everyone from young kids taking their first gentle sled run to thrill seeking teens.

My plan was a two- to three-hour afternoon hike. One family I met on the train left me with a warning, though: "Every year people get lost because they left the path. Don't leave the trail." Give the expansiveness of this urban wilderness and the vast network of trails snaking through forestland, I had no intention of leaving the path. 

Sticking with the wide paths, I found myself immersed in a true winter wonderland with snow clinging to tree limbs, needles and bushes, and coating rocks and grassy fields. Picnic tables clustered among evergreens, and benches were strategically positioned to provide postcard perfect viewpoints of Lake Zurich and the Alps beyond. Dense woodland alternates with wide open, undulating landscape that's sliced with sled tracks.

Though I didn't bring food for my trek, I found plenty of places to sample Swiss cuisine: whether the cafeteria at the train station where I disembark or other restaurants in the hills, including the glassed-in and uber scenic restaurant of the Uto Kulm Hotel set beside the observation tower (closed in winter) with panoramic views of the city and, on a clear day, Germany. The restaurant's outdoor deck is also where I would be sequestered in the summer.

From this vantage point it's an extremely steep and ice-laden staircase leading to the main walking trail along the ridge. (I only found out much later that this hair-raising situation could've been avoided by bypassing the observation tower and taking a trail that veered to the right.)

At the bottom, I was rewarded with some much needed cheese fondue at Uto Staffel, a restaurant looking out to the snow draped valley and mountains. Down the path, drinking water flows from a fountain made from a hollowed out log.

I shared the path with joggers, mountain bikers, families, couples with walking sticks, and children pulling sleds.Occasionally I'd spot the sign for my destination:
Felsenegg, the location of the cable car that would bring me back down to catch a train from the Adliswil station back to Zurich's main station.

Near the end of my 2.5 hour journey, the landscape  transforms into an even more magical land with the brush at the base of the trees glazed with ice, resembling sparkling dust.

A five-minute walk from the cable car boarding area is a cozy restaurant that serves some yummy mac and cheese, Swiss pancakes with prunes and, of course, the de rigueur apple strudel.

This is a hike that's a must for anyone who wants to experience perhaps one of the most wonderful urban wilderness options around, winter or summer. These photos are a sample of what I found:

The Beauty of Gdansk, Poland

How curious. After I told colleagues that I was planning to make a short visit to Gdansk, Poland, and, overwhelmingly, the opinions ranged from: "Skip Gdansk, it's such an ugly city," to "There's not much there, aside from shipyards and a monument and museum for the Solidarity movement."

I'm glad I didn't pay any attention to these uninformed views. Here are my recommendation based on  what I found:

• Walk the main street to take in the facades and gables bedecked with symbols. One bears the resemblance of Shakespeare because many of his plays were performed in this city during the 17th century.

Justice sits atop a nearby building sits Justice while another is topped with Neptune.

• The Town Hall with its imposing clock tower bears a sundial on its facade. A stop to visit the Red room is a must.

• For panoramic views of the city, climb the 255-foot-high tower of St. Mary's Church.  This is where Bach had once applied to be a cantor. The enormous, 15th century astronomical clock and calendar on the wall is quite complex, revealing phases of the moon, zodiac symbols, and a bell that Adam & Eve ring on the hour.

• Wander narrow Mariacka Street that's lined with mansions displaying gargoyles house amber workshops, artist atelier, cafes and even a lovely library.

• Stroll the riverfront promenade where the new section of the maritime Museum exhibits ship models from around the world and allows the kids to make a tsunami.

Architecture in Riga, Latvia

Art Nouveau fans will be in heaven in Riga, Latvia where probably 30% of the buildings reflect this flowery architectural style.

Wander these streets: Alberta iela, Elizabetes, Strēlnieku, Blaumaņa,Vīlandes iela, Šķūņu, Smilšu iela to view a roster of Art Nouveau masterpieces by notables that include Mikhail Eisenstein, Eižens Laube, and Konstantīns Pēkšēns. With facades bearing prominent pine cones, cherubs, a sphinx, elongated faces, dragons, lotus petals, gargoyles, and curiously-shaped windows (including a resemblance to keyholes), the buildings radiate a mythical feel that, at times, even convey a sense of the macabre.

To further saturate yourself with the art nouvea vibe, spend some time in the Riga Art Nouveau Museum that's housed in lavishly-detailed former apartment of Konstantīns Pēkšēns.

These facades below are just a few of my favorites.