Zurich's Postcard Perfect Urban Wilderness

Ah, a snowy Sunday in Zurich. With so many shops closed, what's a Type A person, like myself, to do? Head to the wilderness, of course. And that couldn't be easier in Zurich where Mount Uetliberg, really a set of hills rather than one mountain, rises almost 3,000 feet above sea level. In the winter, it's a playground for sledding, walking, hiking, jogging and mountain biking. In the summer, take sledding  out of the mix and add picnicking.

Taking a train from Zurich's main station to Uetliberg, I shared my car with families and kids toting sleds. The wide open slopes as well as steeper terrain attracts everyone from young kids taking their first gentle sled run to thrill seeking teens.

My plan was a two- to three-hour afternoon hike. One family I met on the train left me with a warning, though: "Every year people get lost because they left the path. Don't leave the trail." Give the expansiveness of this urban wilderness and the vast network of trails snaking through forestland, I had no intention of leaving the path. 

Sticking with the wide paths, I found myself immersed in a true winter wonderland with snow clinging to tree limbs, needles and bushes, and coating rocks and grassy fields. Picnic tables clustered among evergreens, and benches were strategically positioned to provide postcard perfect viewpoints of Lake Zurich and the Alps beyond. Dense woodland alternates with wide open, undulating landscape that's sliced with sled tracks.

Though I didn't bring food for my trek, I found plenty of places to sample Swiss cuisine: whether the cafeteria at the train station where I disembark or other restaurants in the hills, including the glassed-in and uber scenic restaurant of the Uto Kulm Hotel set beside the observation tower (closed in winter) with panoramic views of the city and, on a clear day, Germany. The restaurant's outdoor deck is also where I would be sequestered in the summer.

From this vantage point it's an extremely steep and ice-laden staircase leading to the main walking trail along the ridge. (I only found out much later that this hair-raising situation could've been avoided by bypassing the observation tower and taking a trail that veered to the right.)

At the bottom, I was rewarded with some much needed cheese fondue at Uto Staffel, a restaurant looking out to the snow draped valley and mountains. Down the path, drinking water flows from a fountain made from a hollowed out log.

I shared the path with joggers, mountain bikers, families, couples with walking sticks, and children pulling sleds.Occasionally I'd spot the sign for my destination:
Felsenegg, the location of the cable car that would bring me back down to catch a train from the Adliswil station back to Zurich's main station.

Near the end of my 2.5 hour journey, the landscape  transforms into an even more magical land with the brush at the base of the trees glazed with ice, resembling sparkling dust.

A five-minute walk from the cable car boarding area is a cozy restaurant that serves some yummy mac and cheese, Swiss pancakes with prunes and, of course, the de rigueur apple strudel.

This is a hike that's a must for anyone who wants to experience perhaps one of the most wonderful urban wilderness options around, winter or summer. These photos are a sample of what I found:

The Beauty of Gdansk, Poland

How curious. After I told colleagues that I was planning to make a short visit to Gdansk, Poland, and, overwhelmingly, the opinions ranged from: "Skip Gdansk, it's such an ugly city," to "There's not much there, aside from shipyards and a monument and museum for the Solidarity movement."

I'm glad I didn't pay any attention to these uninformed views. Here are my recommendation based on  what I found:

• Walk the main street to take in the facades and gables bedecked with symbols. One bears the resemblance of Shakespeare because many of his plays were performed in this city during the 17th century.

Justice sits atop a nearby building sits Justice while another is topped with Neptune.

• The Town Hall with its imposing clock tower bears a sundial on its facade. A stop to visit the Red room is a must.

• For panoramic views of the city, climb the 255-foot-high tower of St. Mary's Church.  This is where Bach had once applied to be a cantor. The enormous, 15th century astronomical clock and calendar on the wall is quite complex, revealing phases of the moon, zodiac symbols, and a bell that Adam & Eve ring on the hour.

• Wander narrow Mariacka Street that's lined with mansions displaying gargoyles house amber workshops, artist atelier, cafes and even a lovely library.

• Stroll the riverfront promenade where the new section of the maritime Museum exhibits ship models from around the world and allows the kids to make a tsunami.

Architecture in Riga, Latvia

Art Nouveau fans will be in heaven in Riga, Latvia where probably 30% of the buildings reflect this flowery architectural style.

Wander these streets: Alberta iela, Elizabetes, Strēlnieku, Blaumaņa,Vīlandes iela, Šķūņu, Smilšu iela to view a roster of Art Nouveau masterpieces by notables that include Mikhail Eisenstein, Eižens Laube, and Konstantīns Pēkšēns. With facades bearing prominent pine cones, cherubs, a sphinx, elongated faces, dragons, lotus petals, gargoyles, and curiously-shaped windows (including a resemblance to keyholes), the buildings radiate a mythical feel that, at times, even convey a sense of the macabre.

To further saturate yourself with the art nouvea vibe, spend some time in the Riga Art Nouveau Museum that's housed in lavishly-detailed former apartment of Konstantīns Pēkšēns.

These facades below are just a few of my favorites. 

Hiking Portugal's Longest Trail

Think Portugal and what comes to mind? Of course the vibrant capital of Lisbon, swaths of sandy beaches, rich port wines, fortified hilltop towns, and ruins from Roman and megalithic periods. What about hiking? Probably not. But your next trip to Portugal should include hiking, thanks to a brand new trail, the longest in Portugal. Whether for a day or a week, you'll find that this trail, the Rota Vicentina, is all about authenticity in that the people who created it teamed up with rural accommodations that are locally owned to highlight a part of the country that sees little outside travelers. (And they did it without building a waterfront resort or yet another golf course.)

I recently wrote about my hike along the Rota Vicentina for National Geographic Traveler - Intelligent Travel.

Gear Review: Aloe Gel

With so many chemicals in the products we purchase, it's always great to find a reputable outdoor-oriented company manufacturing environmentally-friendly creams, salves, ointments, gels and lotions to keep you from getting bitten, burned, chapped, and laden with welts and rashes after a day or more of hiking, biking or just hanging out at the beach. All Terrain is that company. Not only is this New Hampshire-based company focused on natural ingredients but they are also concerned about children's health, including obesity. (That's why they support organizations that are concentrating on getting kids to be more active.)

Two of All Terrain's products that I'm recommending in my soon-to-go-on-sale first-aid kit organizer (referred to as Doc-in-a-Bag™) are Aloe Gel and Herbal Armor Spray. So many aloe products don't seem to do much for my dry or red, irritated skin (whether from a rash or a minor sunburn) except leave me with a greasy feeling. Not so with Aloe Gel. I've applied it on my arms and legs and not a bit of the product ended up staining my clothing. 

The product, which comes in an easy-to-pack two-ounce tube ($4.99) contains chamomile and cucumber extracts as well as lavender oil, all which are noted for their skin healing properties. Also, the gel doesn't have a curious scent.

Herbal Armor Spray (4 ounces for $8.99) contains six natural oils noted for their ability to repel insects, such as mosquitoes: citronella, soybean, peppermint, cedar, lemongrass and geranium. Like any insect repellent, it's not 100% effective, of course. But I found it pretty powerful in repelling mosquitoes and flies for the first couple of hours after applying it.

Birding In Cuba

I arrived in Cuba (on a tour with International Expeditions) not to sample the coffee, some with elaborate foam art displaying the visage of Che Guevara; watch the daily street parade of 1950s automobiles; dance to son, danzon, rumba or other Cuban music; or sip a mojito in a Havana bar that Hemingway frequented. No, I came to check out the bird scene because, beyond this island nation's signature sights and activities is a verdant landscape brimming with bird species. 

I recently wrote about my birding experiences in Cuba for National Geographic Traveler - Intelligent Travel.

Personal Security Device - Gear Review

Whether I'm strolling around my NYC neighborhood, traveling domestically, or visiting a far-flung land, personal safety is always a concern. Being a savvy traveler, especially as a woman traveling alone, means always being aware of your surroundings and sizing up those around you. I'm often asked to talk or blog about women's travel safety tips that include dressing culturally correct, avoiding hotel rooms on the first floor, and checking the elevator before you get in. Because I'm so focused on travel safety and security, that's why I decided to review and highly recommend a new personal security app: LifeLine Response.

Available for the iPhone or Android, LifeLine Response is unique among personal security devices. If you're about to be attacked – and, as we know from news reports over the past 12 months or so, assaults against women are on the rise in the U.S., especially on college campuses – you need something that doesn't require you to do a whole lot to prevent the attack from taking place. After all, when attacked, your mind may go blank or you may not have time to push a button on an alarm, take out pepper spray, fumble while trying to dial 911, or even open up an app on your phone. Enter LifeLine Response that launched in September 2012.

When it's set on “Thumb Mode,” it operates like a “dead-man's switch. In other words, your thumb comes off your smartphone's touch pad – as would surely happen with an attempted assault – and the countdown starts. (If your thumb accidentally came off your phone's screen, you can still enter a deactivation code.) But, if it's a real attack and you don't enter the proper code, the process is set in motion, no matter if the phone is confiscated by your attacker. The result: an alarm sounds and a male voice “Lawrence” announces that the police have been contacted and are on the way. LifeLine Response's verification center will contact you to find out if it's really an emergency. If you're being forced to say everything is fine, when it's not, you can enter the silent alarm code, instead of the deactivation code. The attacker will think you've disarmed the app. What they don't realize is that entering the silent alarm code or not responding at all tells the center that it's truly an emergency and they will call local 911 who will have your location based on GPS coordinates. In addition, all your contacts (life lines that you had entered into the system initially) will be alerted with a text message and your GPS coordinates. And, if you're a college student, the system can alert campus security.

This “Thumb Mode” is perfect if you're just walking to your hotel, for example. But if you plan to go jogging for an hour or so, you can set it to “Timer Mode” so that you're not forced to holding your thumb on the screen. Again, if you don't use your disarm security code, the alarm will go off with the same results as above.

I recently conducted an interview with Peter Cahill, the CEO and Founder of LifeLife Response. Here's what he told me:

It took two years to develop a prototype. We want to empower people to prevention. There's an epidemic of assaults in the U.S., with with one in four women and one in 15 men assaulted every day. The idea of LifeLife Response is to prevent the attack from happening. We developed it with psychologists. And we also spoke with prison inmates - pedophiles, rapists - to find out what would scare them. We found that 40% to 50% of attackers will leave if they hear an alarm, and 40% to 55% will leave if they hear a voice. We're trying to get 99% of the attackers. With LifeLine Response, if you're attacked, we will know where you are and the police will be there. The lifelines are part of the redundancy. We know your lifelines will not wait to act. With other products on the market, you have to press a button on your phone, or dial 911. It's just not realistic.You can't react responsibly during an assault, unless you're trained. So we take the thinking out of it. All you need to know is your four-digit code. We are the 21st Century 911.

I feel strongly that women, men and teens living or traveling in the U.S. should seriously think about getting this app on their smartphone. There's no reason not to. Cost? It's not free but the cost is minimal (a one-year subscription is $21.99) especially considering the risk. Pocket phone? Cahill says false alarms are 0.00002%. Visit the website and see how it works. You'll be impressed with its sophistication, as I was.